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Monthly Archives: February 2017

Side Cars For Motorcycles

Attaching a side car changes the aerodynamics of the bike. It no longer rides like a two wheeled vehicle. The forces that run a motorcycle like the centripetal and centrifugal do not come to play. The drag coefficient also increases. The maneuverability of the bike as a two wheeled vehicle is lost. The bike then rides more like a car, but then it’s not a car. Its feel is different. So in case you have been riding motorcycles without a side car you will have to learn how to ride a bike with one attached to it. This is because the bike now has 3 wheels and cutting corners and moving through traffic will require some expertise.

Side cars for motorcycles have been in existence since the turn of the last century. WJ Graham of England was the first man to get the patent in 1903.The twenties and thirties was the hay day period and a lot many were manufactured.This continued in full force during the war years (39-45) and were popular with the Armed forces. The Germans particularly used the side car with telling effect and mounted a machine gun on it. The motorcyclist rode the bike and the machine gunner looked all around with the machine gun ready to fire. This type of motorcycle with its attachment with a machine gun was one of the main stays of the German army in occupied Europe.It really did terrorize the populace. The Germans attached these innovations to their BMW, Zundapp and other machines. However the war’s end saw the relative demise of this invention. And after the fifties its usage became restricted. Presently a side car is a rarity and only a few enthusiasts buy it.

Though the attached car is getting out of fashion it must be remembered that during the war years the it had a life of its own. German and soviet bikes(The Ural) used a differential gear to improve the ability of the bike to negotiate all types of terrain. Differential gear permits power from the engine to be transmitted to the wheel of the attached car thereby helping the machine move along easily on an uneven road.

The car attached to a bike is usually made of steel and is fixed to the body of the motorcycle. Most cars can be decoupled from the bike or attached in a reasonable short time. The side car provides a seat for one passenger and can come with an optional wind shield.One of the adoptions also allows a side car to be used to carry cargo. Some of them may have also have a soft removable top. But all these contraptions take away the thrill of a motorcycle and that’s the reason this contraption is almost out of fashion these days. Remember once a side car is attached to a bike the dynamics of the bike change and it drives more like a car. Attaching it to the bike also affects the speed which is greatly reduced. Thus the bike becomes unsuitable for cross country rides or intercity drives. Even in cities the usage of the bike becomes restricted in case the streets are crowded or narrow. Of course the stability is greater and chance of the bike falling on the side is almost zero. It could be a good help for older people and persons who cannot afford a car.

Smart Car Engine

To transfer this power to the rear wheels is a 5 speed automated manual single dry clutch plate transmission. The gear ratios are for first gear -3.308, second is -1.913, third is -1.258, fourth is -0.943 and fifth gear is -0.707. The reverse gear ratio is -3.231 and the final drive in the rear end is at -4.529.

The front axle suspension has a lower wishbone with McPherson Struts and an anti roll bar. The rear axle suspension is DeDoin with coil springs and telescopic shock absorbers.

The ABS braking system is of dual circuit design with tandem servo assistance. The front brakes are 11 inch discs and the rears are 8 inch drums. This system also has traction control and electronic brake assistance.

This is the breakdown of not only the Smart car engine, but the other main mechanical components that are all standard on this fuel efficient car.

Tips Drive Stick Shift Car

First, when getting into a stick shift car, it is commonplace to have the shifter placed into a gear when the engine is shut off. To start the car, place your foot on the clutch all the way down, then turn the ignition. Once the engine starts, while keeping your foot on the clutch, place the shifter in neutral. Once the shifter is in neutral, you can release the clutch. At this point, keep your foot on the brake and release any handbrake.

Once starting your car, the next step is pulling out onto the street or other motorway where you intend to drive. If you are going to go straight, then keep your foot on the brake, press the clutch, and put your car into first gear. To get the car moving, give the car a little gas–about 2000 rpm is usually good enough. Once you do this, slowly release the clutch about a third of the way to get the car to move. To move a little at a time, release the clutch a little, and then press it again. If you would like to move in reverse, then place your car in reverse gear and follow the same steps.

When you make your way onto the street, the next step is actually putting your car in gear and driving. Like the previous paragraph, the first step is to press the clutch and put the car into first gear. Once you have shifted into first gear, press the gas–again, 2000 rpm is usually good. Once you have given the car a little gas, then gradually ease off the clutch. When you do this, you will notice that the rpms will start to drop and the car will begin to move forward. Once the rpms reach about 1000 or when you feel the engine struggle, gently give the car more gas. Continue to do this until the clutch is fully released. Now you are in first gear and can drive around!

Once you are driving, changing gears is easy. When you reach a rpm that is high enough, simply depress the clutch and shift the car into the next gear. Once you are in the next gear, release the clutch again. If you are slowing down, you should use a similar process. You should depress the clutch, but this time you need to shift into a lower gear. If you ever come to a complete stop, you simply depress the clutch and shift the car into neutral. Now you’re driving stick! Its that easy!

Change Gear Fluid

Place your floor jack at the correct position, preferably in the middle of rear axle under the main housing. Elevate until you have enough room to comfortably get under the vehicle on your creeper. Place your jack stands under the rear axle, one on each side of main housing. Make sure they are set high enough and placed correctly in order to give you plenty of room to maneuver on your creeper.

Most rear housing drains are located exactly on the bottom of the main housing; some are located slightly higher and are always located below the fill hole. You’ll need a crescent wrench or an Allen wrench to remove drain plug. Turn the plug counter clockwise until it’s removed and grease will begin to drain. When the housing is empty, pay particular attention to the findings in the bottom of the drain pan. Look for evidence of metal filings. Metal filings indicate some wear on the gears but if there isn’t an excessive amount, don’t worry about it. All gears produce small flakey filings.

Replace your drain plug and make sure you get it tight. Your fill plug will be located on either side of the main housing and will require the same tool for removal. Remove the plug, using a small funnel or small suction gun. Replace the old grease with the new, but do not overfill. Usually, you can fill until it starts to run out of the fill hole. Then, replace your plug quickly. Clean your tools and remove the jack stands. This is a safe and cost-efficient way of changing your gear fluid and maintaining your vehicle.